We arrived in Koh Phangan at the port. Due to the full moon party being soon we had already booked our accommodation so we just had to find a way to get there. You’re inundated with taxi drivers before you’ve even managed to put your backpack on. We decided to follow one and for 100 Baht each we had a ride directly to our hostel. We later realised that 100 Baht is the flat rate for most journeys to where our hostel was. We had booked to stay in ‘Phangan Arena’, mainly because of their large football pitch as Harry was missing football and due to the reviews saying it was great place to meet people. Due to the full moon, the price was nearly four times the normal price and you have to book a minimum of five nights! We dropped our things off and headed to the beach for the sunset. Phangan Arena isn’t directly on the beach but you can walk there in about five minutes. The beach close by isn’t the best but we found a swing and enjoyed the sunset. That evening we walked along the main road and stumbled upon ‘Outlaws Saloon’, here we all had steak for a reasonable price and it was really tasty. After dinner harry headed back to the hostel and Leila and Daisy headed to the walking street to the market. After browsing for a while they decided to get a taxi back for 100 Baht each, realising the taxis were adding up and the places to go on the island were spread out we made the decision of hiring a jeep the following day.
The next morning we woke up and had an okay breakfast at the hostel then headed across the road to hire a jeep for the day. It cost us 800 Baht for one day, which is less than the three of us getting three taxi rides each! Once we got the jeep we headed to ‘Challenge Phangan’. It cost us 500 Baht each to get in but you can spend as long as you want there. It was harder than we anticipated and Harry even had a go at doing the challenge, although he could hardly speak after! A few hours later we headed back, got showered and drove to ‘The Mason Arms’ for our first Sunday roast in about five months! It was delicious and the pub itself made us feel like we had been transported back to England for the evening! We had a few games of darts then went back to the hostel.
The following day we woke up and decided breakfast at the hostel wasn’t for us so we found ’Bubba’s Cafe’. Here Leila had the breakfast board, Harry had the pulled pork bagel and Daisy had eggs royal. It was delicious! One of the best breakfasts we have had! Once our tummies were full we hopped in the jeep for a drive around the island. We got to ‘Haad Rin beach’ but realised we couldn’t continue further so we headed back then chucked a right to cut through the middle of the island. This was a lovely drive over the hill. We reached the other end but realised we couldn’t cut through to the west side of the island so we turned back and drove up the road to the west coast. On the way we came across a sign for a waterfall so we decided to go to check it out. It’s free to walk to but there is a blind guy that helps maintain the area. So we purchased a drink each from him and headed to the waterfall. It was a nice waterfall but not one you can swim in. We headed back to the jeep and ended up at ‘Koh Ma Beach’ just in time to grab some chips, swim with some fishes and watch the lovely sunset. We had parked the jeep on a hill but as it is a 4×4 we didn’t think anything of it, When we returned to leave, the car wouldn’t reverse up the hill so we couldn’t turn around, it rolled forward and missed the post by a millimetre. A local guy came and put a rock in front of the tires so it couldn’t roll anymore and we started to scratch our heads working out what to do. After a while we put the jeep in 4×4 mode instead of 2 wheel drive and tried to reverse it again which made the manoeuvre a lot easier! We all thanked our lucky stars we didn’t have a jeep to pay out for and then headed back to get showered as we were meeting Harry’s cousin Eden for dinner.
We picked him up at his hostel ‘Echo hostel’ and drove down the road for dinner. Leila narrowed it down to a Mexican or a Korean BBQ and Harry headed for the all you can eat Korean BBQ. (Although we wouldn’t recommend it!) The meat wasn’t the best and the BBQ had a steaming area for the vegetables, it wasn’t like the one we went to in Hanoi! It was still lovely to catch up with Eden though. Afterwards we headed to ‘Reggae Village’, here they had a live band playing and it was great fun. We played a few rounds of pool and got talking to a Welsh guy who was here on holiday. He told us to head to a bar called ‘Nimbins’ down the road as you can buy joints from the menu. When the band hand finished playing we headed there for a smoke which cost 200 Baht for one joint. He had a two month old puppy there too so we chilled there for a bit then headed back to drop Eden off before arriving back at our hostel.
The next morning it was Daisy’s birthday, we got up and headed straight to ‘Bubba’s’ as the food was so good! Then decided what Daisy fancied doing that day. She needed to go to the post office to send a few bits home so we headed there and while we was waiting Leila went to the shop and bought Daisy some birthday candles as a surprise. Leila had left her favourite swimming costume and towel at the beach bar yesterday so we decided to head back there to see if we could find it. She ran off to ask the bar but they weren’t the most attentive staff and just said no, she came back disappointed she couldn’t find it so we all decided to go down to take a look together. After walking around the area for about fifteen minutes one of the bar staff came to find us with the swimming costume and towel. We thanked him and then got on our way to ‘Bottle Beach’. This was supposed to be the best beach on the island and as being on a beach was Daisy’s favourite thing, there wasn’t a better way to spend her birthday! Once we turned off the main road onto the road that led to the beach it got bumpier and bumpier! We were happy we had found the 4×4 drive the day before as the dirt roads were incredibly steep. Once we got there it was worth it as the beach was incredible which included white sand and clear waters. We just wish that we had got there earlier, but then again none of us are morning people! Once the sun had disappeared behind the mountain we made our way back to the hostel. Although on the route home on the steepest part of the journey Harry started freaking out as there was a tiny spider crawling over the window and he was more worried about the spider coming towards him then the fact we could roll off the road by any point was not an issue to him! Leila started shouting at him and Daisy just couldn’t stop laughing!
When we got back to our dorm we were welcomed by two new room mates Roy and Harry. They said they were off to the jungle party that evening and we should join. We explained it was Daisy’s birthday so we were going out for dinner and we would see how we felt afterwards. We all got ready and headed to ‘Infinity Beach Club’ for dinner. We saw the seafood restaurant advertised around the island so Daisy really wanted to go there. We turned up and the location is lovely, we sat down to order but they had less seafood than we thought, our waiter was funny and explained happy hour was for another twenty minutes so we should get our orders in soon. We all ordered two cocktails each and then Leila snuck off to the toilet with the candles to tell the waiter to put them on Daisy’s pudding. When Leila came back from the toilet Daisy said ‘the waiter just came over and asked me and Harry if we wanted pudding, we haven’t even ordered our mains yet!’. The waiter then came over and asked Leila the same question, Leila walked off with him and explained we would have two cheese cakes and a creme brûlée but Daisy didn’t know about the candles as it was a surprise! Leila thought he understood what she said and while we was waiting for our mains to arrive the waited started walking towards us with the cheesecake and candles, Leila quickly made a hand gesture for him to go to which Daisy turned around to see the cheesecake and candles. We all burst out laughing, the surprise was ruined but it was all a laugh. The waiter realised what he done, walked off with the cheese cake and said ‘sorry I stupid’. Which had us laughing even more. Dinner was good and finally it was the right time to sing happy birthday to daisy. Unfortunately the puddings were awful but it ended on a high and we jumped into a taxi back to the hostel.
When we returned to our room, Roy and Harry had left daisy a bottle of red wine on her bed with a note saying ‘happy birthday’. We joined them in the bar and decided to go to the jungle party. Tickets were 600 Baht each including the taxi there. When we arrived it was a lot better than we had expected. There was a main stage, lots of different bars, fire show and a Maui Thai boxing arena. We ended up staying until around 3am before we started to run out of energy. Leila, Harry, Daisy and Harry headed back in a taxi while the others stayed on longer.
We woke up with a sore head the next morning and decided to go to ‘Bubbas Cafe’ again, this time with Roy and Harry before returning the jeep. Everyone enjoyed their breakfast and on the way back from dropping the jeep we booked our tickets to Krabi for 11am the next morning. Tonight was the full moon party and as we were all feeling fragile so we decided to have a pool day at the hostel. Leila headed to the room at around 4pm for an hours nap and Harry played football for an hour as there was a game going, when Leila woke up we all started to get ready to go for dinner. We decided to go to ‘Fishermans Restaurant’ as the seafood the night before was average and this had great reviews online. Roy and Harry decided to join us along with Leo from our dorm too. We walked from our hostel which took about fifteen minutes. When we arrived they asked if we had a booking which we didn’t but luckily they still managed to fit us in. We sat in a boat for dinner which was good fun and the whole restaurants decor was done really well. Most of us had a crab dish as this is what the restaurant specialised in. The reviews didn’t lie because the food was amazing, Leila and Harry also had a elderflower cocktail which came with a Prosecco ice cream in a cocktail glass. While we was at the restaurant we got to witness the blood moon and the lunar eclipse which was quite spectacular. We were all stuffed after dinner and contemplated going to bed rather than to the full moon but we pulled ourselves out of it and headed to ‘Two Rocks’ for pre drinks. We had thought about doing a shroom shake before hand but due to everyone saying the full moon is mental we thought it might be a bit too much, so we all decided to drink instead. From ‘Two Rocks’ you can buy shroom shakes and joints if you need them, there’s a great chilled atmosphere there too, with hammocks overlooking the sea.
At about 12am we jumped into a taxi to the full moon party. Once you reach ‘Haad Rin beach’ the streets are lined with stalls selling every type of alcohol in a bucket form. You pay 100 Baht each to get into the beach, this is to help with the cost of the clean up the day after which is totally reasonable, you also get a wristband in return! We got a few buckets between us and followed the crowd to the beach where we found a sound system we were all happy to listen to. The full moon is hectic, the toilets are the worst I’ve been to in Asia as everyone blocks them with toilet paper, sick and god knows what else! There was two things that saved us that night which were ‘crab hands’ and ‘human shield’. If you’re ever in a large group of people in a crowd following each other, do crab hands (put your hands high in the sky and make a crab hand). I guarantee you will not lose anyone in your group. If you stand there doing crab hands they will find you before you know it! The human shield is easier for men. What can you do with them empty buckets? Everyone huddles round you of course and links arms while you use it as a potty so you don’t have to pay to use the toilets. Daisy had a go but as she did a camera crew came over thinking we were all doing the dance, we quickly sent them away! One rule of the ‘human shield’ is that you can not break it until the man/woman in the middle shouts break! We also bumped into a family friend Kristian while at the full moon which was a surprise, as we didn’t think we would bump into each other at all due to the full moon being so busy! We left the full moon around 4am, went back to the hostel and collapsed on our beds as we had to be up in six hours time ready to check out and get our taxi to the port to leave for Krabi.
Tip: If you go to the fullmoon party book a week in advance to get the accomadation you want, make sure you attend the jungle party to! If you dont want to party there loads of great things to do on Koh Phangan as well!
Tip: Get Breakfast at ‘Bubbas Cafe’. Your be going back every day like we were!